Ride Height Adjustment
Ride height adjustment is carried out by rotating the torsion bars with respect to the indices on the frontlower A-arms and rear mount within the cross member.  The bars are provided with a different number of splines (35 front, 34 rear) at each end, essentially a vernier scale, allowing precise adjustments to be made.  When removing the bars, take care not to switch them over.  The bars are marked by the following code: Left by a yellow mark and the letter S or L: right by a blue mark and the letter D or R. You shouldn't have to worry about this since the bars don't need to be fully removed to be adjusted, but I included it here just in case. 

Using a marker, grease pencil or scribe, mark the position of the factory indices on the A-arm and cross member in relation to the splines on the bars.  By employing the torsion bar removal tool or your substitute (you cheapskate), withdraw the torsion  bars to the rear so that the splines are completely free.  Complete the ride height adjustment by rotating the torsion bar by one tooth at each for every 1.5 mm to 2.0 mm of required adjustment.  Viewing the bars from the rear, rotate the right side bar counterclock wise to lower the car and clockwise to raise the car.  You adjust the left bar in the same manner, but rotate the bar clockwise to lower the ride height and counterclockwise to raise it. 

Use this formula to correct rideheight: (amount of required correction in inches) divided by .059  (number of splines rotated).  Roundoff the number of splines to be rotated, such as 10.4 is read as 10. 

Reinsert the bars, remembering to permanently mark the original factory indices, and temporarily mark your new splines corresponding to the factory indices.  These may be marked permanently once you've verified the new ride height, but always distinguish them from the original factory reference marks.

Front and Rear Sway Bar and Rear Coil Spring Installation
The sway bars come with installation instructions and complete hardware. The front is a simple matter of unfastening the original and bolting in the Shankle bit.  The bar hardware should never be tightened while the suspension is in the droop position during installation.  Only tighten it once the full weight  of the car is on it, otherwise you will pre-load the torsion bar, causing uneven handling.  This applies to both bars. 

The rear bar is a bit more difficult to install.  After having lifted the car and supported the chassis with stands,remove the rear wheels.  Next, unfasten the shift linkage at the transaxle (on later GTV-6s and Milanos this is not necessary) and disconnect the bottom  mounts of the shock absorbers.  Unbolt two outer ends of the Watts linkage and the sway bar mounts and move the coil springs-both on GTV and right only on Milanos.disconnect the parking brake cable and support the transaxle with a jack;  also disconnect the electrical wires to the transaxle.  Remove the single bolt fastening the transaxle to the body and lower the transaxle while watching the brake line to ensure that it is not stretched.  You may now remove the sway bar from the car.  Installation is the reverse of removal with the exception of substituting the Shankle coil springs for the originals and following the instructions regarding the Teflon lubricant and anti-squeak tape provided with the bar.